How to choose the right Numbing for Permanent Makeup
Permanent Makeup procedures are becoming more popular and require a PMU artist to break into the surface of the skin, with needles using a permanent makeup pen or micro blades that don't go too deep into the skin, but can still be quite painful.
In the past, permanent makeup procedures used to be more painful. Topical anesthetics were not as easily accessible as before, the tools being used today are more gentler on the skin than they used to be but the trauma on the skin is still painful (much less than the traditional tattoo), especially when your client's skin gets irritated half way through the procedure.
Numbing products are a must when it comes to Permanent Makeup or Micropigmentation procedures. In fact, there are different kinds of numbing products used in the above procedures. These products will 1) allow for a more comfortable experience for your client during their permanent makeup procedures and 2) avoid your client from flinching, moving, making it harder for you to conduct the procedure.
Your numbing agents are some of our most important tools. Today, we'll be going over the basics of numbing creams and topical anesthetics and sharing some tips on how to use different numbing creams and/or topical anesthetics for maximum results.
How Does numbing for Permanent Makeup work?
Topical Anesthetics are available in the form of creams, gels, and liquids. They are available in different consistencies and when they are applied over the skin, they are absorbed, and they block the nerve endings from sending signals to the brain. This causes a numbing sensation. As a result, your client will not feel pain, but rather a pressure sensation on their skin.
The effects are temporary, and different topical anesthetics work in different ways. These topical anesthetics work in a short time, as they are not administered into the blood vessels, like injectable anesthesia. Usually, the effects of numbing used on unbroken skin will only last up to 45 minutes due to the absorption through intact skin being quite low.
That is why 2 types of numbing products are usually combined during permanent makeup procedures.
What Types of Topical Anesthetics Are There?
Since 45 minutes is not enough time to complete a whole permanent makeup procedure, 2 types of topical anesthetics are used during the procedure:
- Primary Numbing - Used before the procedure, on intact skin (unbroken)
- Secondary Numbing - Used during the procedure, (after the skin is broken)
Please remember to read directions on usage on your product to ensure it is suitable for use on broken skin before you apply it.
How long do Permanent Makeup Numbing products take to activate?
Primary numbing products take anywhere from 15 minutes up to 30 minutes, while secondary numbing products can activate within a few minutes. Some clients may take longer to respond to numbing agents and might need a few additional minutes. Only primary numbing products can be left on longer for a stronger effect. Secondary numbing agents already contain more ingredients making them more stronger, effective, and should not be left on longer on the skin as they will cause the skin texture to alter (rubbery skin), making the skin very tough to work on.
For Secondary numbing agents, you will notice a white halo effect around the applied area, this means the numbing agent activated.
What Should I Look For in a Topical Anesthetic?
Both Primary and Secondary numbing products contain lidocaine. Lidocaine is the primary ingredient and a powerful anesthetic, most PMU numbing creams will contain up to 5% lidocaine.
Please remember PMU artists are not medical practitioners and are not allowed to use stronger anesthetics than this.
Apart from lidocaine, many formulas for secondary numbing agents also contain tetracaine, epinephrine, and benzocaine. These ingredients make the secondary numbing agents much stronger than primary numbing agents. Different skin types will respond differently to these ingredients, so please make sure to check with your client to ensure they are not allergic to any of the above ingredients before the procedure.
Epinephrine is a vasoconstrictor, it will cause the blood vessels to shrink and constrict blood flow, meaning less bleeding during the treatement, and less redness and swelling.
Consistency of the numbing agent is another factor to consider. Some formulas are creamier or contain more oils, while others have a more gel-like, or even a liquid, watery consistency. The formula you’ll choose depends on your preference, but also on the treatment you’re performing.
How Do I Maximize the Effects of Numbing?
Numbing agents used correctly will allow your client to feel as little pain as possible. Here's a few tricks and tips you can try to achieve maximum numbing results in minimal times.
- Before the procedure, clean the skin to get rid of any bacteria
- Apply primary numbing like Zensa or J-Pro cream using a lint-free applicator
- Complete first pass (without secondary numbing), and then apply secondary numbing
- After each pass, ask your client how they feel and if they require more numbing
- Apply secondary numbing agent as needed during the procedure (most numbing can be applied 2-3 times during the procedure)
Tips on how to numb Brows for PMU
- Creamy, oily anesthetics can make the skin softer, less firm and tight. This is fine for machine PMU, but if you’re doing microblading, you want it to be as firm as possible, so it’s better to find a watery formula
- Thorough cleaning is the prerequisite for an intense and even numbing. The hairs of the brows catch all the unwanted residues, so they will require a thorough cleanse. Clean the area with a disinfectant to remove the residues and allow the PMU numbing to get absorbed equally. Alcohol based wipes works great, since it dries out the skin a little bit and makes it a bit firmer, which is especially useful for microblading
- You don't need to work on both eyebrows at the same time. You can wipe the numbing off of one eyebrow and work on that first, while leaving the numbing a while longer on the other eyebrow. This will additionally diminish the discomfort in the other eyebrow
Additional Tip: You may notice some artists are able to take pitch-perfect after photos without any redness around the results, this can be done using a secondary numbing or aftercare healing gel that takes effect immediately after the procedure.
Tips on how to numb Lash line for Permanent Eyeliner
- For eyeliner tattoo, don’t use runny formulas that can get into the client’s eyes
- Find a thick formula that doesn’t melt
- Find a pH-neutral formula if you’re doing eyeliner that won’t be aggressive on the eyes
Tips on how to numb Lips for PMU
- Lips are not a smooth surface – they have many creases and wrinkles. It is important that you don't swipe PMU numbing cream across them, the cream can’t get into the creases, and those areas won’t numb. Stretch the lips as much as possible when you’re applying the numbing and dab the PMU numbing into the lips for maximum results
- Exfoliation is also important for Lip PMU. If there’s dead, dehydrated skin on the lips (as there often is), the numbing won’t be able to penetrate the lips and your client will be in pain
Tips For PMU Removal
- If you’re performing a PMU removal, do not get a numbing cream with vasoconstrictors in it. With saline and glycolic acid removal, you actually want there to be bleeding, as that’s what will push the pigments out
Please note all numbing formulas need to be stored in a cool, dark place, but some have to be stored in a fridge after they’re opened. Check the instructions on storage.
Last but not least, it is imperative that you only buy your PMU numbing agents from reliable, and trusted suppliers. There are many counterfiet products out there which may contain potentially dangerous ingredients and will not give the desired results.
We work with trusted, and reputable brands like Painstoppers, Dermal Source, Face & Body Professionals, Zensa Skincare, and continue to build relationships with manufacturers in this space to offer the best numbing creams and topical anesthetics for permanent makeup artists world wide in one place.